The Health Benefits of Surfing

As you may have heard or already known, surfing is healthy for the mind, body, and soul. First, let’s name several of surfing’s physical health benefits:

Some of the best bodies in the world belong to surfers.

Photography by Kanaka Menehune

Surfers have better than average coordination, and balance. A strong core is vital for a strong body. Surfing works the core, as well as a myriad of other muscle groups. The upper body is used in order to paddle, while the lower body is utilized to stand up on the board. But, I still recommend stretching before and after surfing. Either on your own or in the form of a Yoga or Pilates class. We do not want our muscles to become lopsided or oddly top heavy!

Often surfing is called the “Fountain of Youth.” Haven’t you ever seen 60, 70 and even 80 year olds out surfing? This is because surfers thrive on the energy and power of the waves. The ocean is massively powerful, and of course, has a powerful effect on the human body.

A list of the physical health benefits:

• Cardiovascular/heart health
• Muscle Tone
• Endurance
• Increased Energy
• Back
• Core
• Deltoids (shoulders)
• Legs

Now, lets talk about the health benefits of surfing on the mind. Surfing creates a high. This has led to the stereotype that surfers are all “laid-back.” Now, not all stereotypes are true, however this one holds some ground. Surfing high or surf stoke is proven to release stress, and actually relaxes people. Obviously you know that people who exercise are less stressed out. Well, when surfing…you are exercising and don’t even know it! Imagine that; a fun, and healthy activity, which improves the body not only physically but mentally as well.

Lastly, but certainly not least, is surfing’s benefit on the soul. This is my personal opinion. Surfing is the epitome of being one with nature. When you catch a wave, you feel the power of the ocean under, over, and next to you. Surfing is the perfect way to feel like you are apart of something “bigger than you.” If there is magic in this world…this is it.

After a long day at the beach, catching waves, and enjoying the ocean, I feel completely satisfied. I believe to my very core of my being that when I surf, I am a more calm, content, and satisfied person.

I hope you are able to tear and step out of your box. I hope that you try surfing if you have always wanted to. You will not regret it; I promise.

Surfing Quiz

Surf Kit!

Before you go surfing be sure to have all these items in your car!

1. Extra wax: Obviously this is important. You always want to make sure that your board is well waxed and prepared.  You should also carry an old I.D. or credit card so you are able to scrap the disintegrating wax off and start new so you do not slip and fall off your board after you pop-up.
2. Sunscreen: Unless you want a sunburn or would someday like to have sun damage or even skin cancer, I recommend you always apply sunscreen about 30 minutes before you go surfing and reapply at least every two hours. Keep a bottle in your car for easy access!
3. First Aid Kit: Always have a first aid kit on hand in case of injury to you or other people. (Also, you or a friend should have a cell phone ready in case of serious injury.)
4. Water: While surfing you will get extremely dehydrated if you do not come at least every hour and a half or two hours to hydrate. If not, you may not recognize until it’s too late that the salt water, sun, and exercise take a huge toll on the body’s water source.
5. Spare Clothes: Just in case! Also, never go to the beach without a towel!
6. A Good Attitude: Have a positive mind-set before even getting into your car or leaving for the beach.  While heading to the beach imagine yourself catching waves. Visualize what you want! You will be surprised at how powerful just your mind can be. This is the ticket to your success.
7. Snacks: Of course you are going to get very hungry while surfing. So, bring some food to the beach! I suggest healthy choices instead of empty calories such as: nuts, fruits, and anything that packs a ton of protein. Remember: you are what you eat! Haven’t you noticed how much more energy you have when you eat healthy?

Top Foods Pre and Post Surfing

Bananas

Photography by psd

Tea (regular, green and Yorkshire tea)

Chocolate and other high energy snacks

Burritos

More Tea

Pasties (small meat pie or turnover)

Dried Fruit

Potato chips

Isotonic Drinks

All Day Breakfast (preferable after surfing!)

Hot Dogs

Coffee (various)

Sandwiches

Smoothies

There you have it! A list of necessities a surfer should never leave the house without. I hope this helped you. Leave a comment listing anything you have found that is also helpful for you.

Rip currents

As a beginner surfer you should always surf at a spot that has a lifeguard on duty. You should never go surfing alone. Even experienced surfers bring buddies.

Lifeguard tower at Pismo Beach

This post is about rip currents as you can tell from the title. If you are ever caught in a rip current (when you are paddling and not going anywhere,) do not panic! I repeat, do not panic! Stay calm, this will save your life.

When waves hit the beach at an angle, this creates “long shore current.” You can see the direction by watching the foam or whitewater. Rip currents make the foam look choppy and dirty (from sand being tossed around under the surface.)

After a wave breaks, there is misplaced water near the shoreline; this creates rip current. Rip currents are about 50 feet-50 yards in width.  Rip current speeds are normally around one to two feet per second. A rip current will not pull you under the water, it will pull you away from the shoreline. They can catch you off guard, and travel hundreds of yards past the surf.

Before you paddle out make sure you can recognize the rip current.  If you are uncertain, make sure you ask the lifeguard or fellow experienced surfer.

After you have read these tips and one day still find that you are stuck in a rip current, as I said above…STAY CALM!  Paddle parallel to the shore; do not try to paddle against the current. Once you feel that you are out of the rip current, paddle straight towards the shore, and try to catch a wave in. If you are unable to paddle in, wave and yell for assistance.  The lifeguard on duty will hurry to your assistance.

On a positive note; rip currents usually create nice forming waves on either side of them.  When you paddle out, use the rip current to help you. (This is only if you feel comfortable doing this.)

Also, some things I should add in that I missed in previous posts:

Etiquette:

• Always communicate with the people around you. For example: “I’m going right!” This shows people you care about their safety and your own.  Also, this proves you have respect for the sport, surfers, and the ocean.
• Have a good attitude.  Maybe your having a bad day, or someone dropped in on you by accident.  Let it roll off your shoulders, and keep a smile on your face!

Pro Surfers and Lingo

Below is a list of just a few Professional Surfers you should know:

• Taj Burrow: He surfs left foot forward (regular).  Burrow was born June 2, 1978, in Yallingup, AUS.
• Bede Durbidge: He was born February 23, 1983, in North Stradbroke Island.
• Mick Fanning: He surfs with his left foot forward.  Fanning was born June 13, 1981.  Fuels up on his “mum’s roast.”
• Jeremy Flores:  He is happiest when he is riding tubes.  Flores was born April 27, 1988, in New Caledonia, South Pacific.  He is the youngest person ever to qualify for the World Tour.
• Andy Irons: He was born July 24, 1978, Hanalei, Kauai, HI. Fuels on Sushi and Sashimi.
  

  Andy Irons

• Bruce Irons: He was born November 16, 1979, in Hanalaei, Kauai, HI.
• Bobby Martinez: He surfs with his right foot forward (goofy-footed.) Martinez was born May 26, 1982, in Santa Barbara, USA! (Santa Barbara is just ninety minutes south of San Luis Obispo.)
• Dean Morrison: He was born December 22, 1980, in Coolangatta, Australia. Fuels on “his mum’s baked dinner.”
• Joel Parkinson: He surfs with his left foot forward.  Parkinson was born April 10, 1981, Coolangatta, Q, AUS.  He admits that his biggest weakness is “beer.”  He has a pet boxer named Trey.
• Kelly Slater: He has won eight world titles.  Slater was born February 11, 1972, in Cocoa Beach, Fla.  Finds that he gets along best with “open-minded people.”
• Pancho Sullivan: He finds his motivation in nature and family.  Sullivan was born July 1st, 1973, in Pupukea Heights, Oahu, HI.
• Ian Walsh: He turned professional in 2001. Walsh was born May 10th, 1983, and currently resides in Maui, HI.

Surfing “Lingo:”

• Ace: to be alone or in a solitary state of mind
• Agg: going crazy
• Aggro: always aggressive; state of being annoyed
• Amped: stoked or excited
• Assmunch: a kook who is aggro
• Ate it: wiped out
• Atoll: a lagoon island
• Bail: to abandon your board regardless what happens to it
• Beat: messed up or ugly
• Bitchin’: 50′s term; signifies something cool
• Booger: boogie boarder
• Bummer: huge let down
• Clean: glassy or good surf conditions
• Dead: no waves
• Dunzo: done
• Grom: a kid
• Hectic: extreme
• Plunger: someone who is constantly going over the falls or pearling, and letting their board shoot straight out of the water
• Shred: a term used to describe people who surf well
• Thongs: flip-flops

You do not want to be caught saying the words below when you are around surfers…because you will sound like a poser.

• Cowabunga (lame)
• Gnarly (over-used when referring to surf)
• Epic (over-used)
• Dude (stereotypical)
• Bro or Brah

Paddling S.L.O.

This is the moment you have been waiting for.  It’s time to surf.  You have enough of the fundamentals to paddle out and catch your first wave.

Photography by Jennifer Jenkins

Gather your board, your 4/3 wetsuit, a buddy (never surf alone,) and don’t forget your new knowledge! Surfing in San Luis Obispo is not recommended in spring.  (During spring it is blown out and has the coldest water temperatures.)

If you come across a day with offshore winds, head out to Pismo Beach Pier before noon.  Check online to see how big the waves are.  A beginner should be surfing spilling waves that are two-four feet high.

Hold on. Don’t get too ancy.  Watch the surf for a bit before hurrying into the water.  Analyze where the waves are breaking.

Once you have picked out where the waves are breaking, you can choose a spot to paddle out.  It is crucial that you DO NOT paddle out where the waves are breaking.

Now, practice your pop ups once more on the beach.  Feeling confident, put the leash on your back foot.  (The back foot is the one that is in the back after you have popped up.)

Take a few deep, calming breaths and head towards the surf.

Wade out into the surf.  Set your board on the water perpendicular to the shore line. The nose should be facing oncoming waves.

Wade out waist deep while holding onto the nose of the board.  Once waist deep, get on top of the board.  Center yourself so that your chest is right above the middle of the board.

Photography by Jennifer Jenkins

Keep your head and chest up, with feet on the board.  Now, begin paddling.

You want to paddle out around the side of breaking waves.  This insures that you won’t get pummeled and that you’re not in other surfers ways’ .

With your hands, sweep the water down the sides and bottom of the board.  Your hands should be partially cupped.

Even though you bypassed the washzone, you are going to encounter some waves.  You have four options when paddling on a funboard or a longboard.

1. Push through: If a small wave is coming, you can just paddle on through.  Keep paddling with even, strong strokes until the very last second before the wave comes.  Lift your upper body off the board with head up and arms straight.  Slightly lift up one leg, while leaving the other foot securely in its place. The wave will comfortably wash over the board only touching one leg.
2. Turn turtle: Firmly grasp the sides (rails) of the board.  Turn the board 180 degrees so that you are under the board and underwater while the wave passes.  Keep your body against the board while the wave passes over.  Once the wave has past, you can easily turn back over, and get back on the board.  Begin paddling again.
3. Cross hang:  So, there is a big wave coming and you’re afraid you won’t be able to safely hang on to the board when it passes.  Push yourself up toward the nose of the board.  Grip the opposite rail tightly with both hands.  Your chest should be over the rail closest to you and tight up against the board.  Your body should be perpendicular to your board.  You may get washed close to shore, but you will stay with your board.
4. Freedive: You can only do this when there is no one behind you! If you do this when someone is behind, they could die.  A big wave is coming! (So, you check that no one is near or behind you.) Freedive is exactly how it sounds; dive off your board and under the wave.  Once at the back of the wave, grab the leash of your board and pull it to you.  However, do not throw your board.  This is extremely dangerous to everyone in the water.

Surfing Safety

Unless you’re going to be surfing on a foam board, it is essential that your board is waxed. Also, buying wax according to water temperature makes the difference between surfing and swimming.  Be aware of the water temperature of where you choose to surf!

• Cold water wax: meant for water temperatures between 52-60 degrees
• Cool water wax: meant for water temperatures between 61-68 degrees
• Warm water wax: meant for water temperatures between 69-76 degrees

(Temperatures slightly vary with each brand name, but are clearly written on the package.)

How to wax your board:  Rub the deck of your board using three to six inch circles.  Pay particular attention to the part of the board where you’ll feet will be (after you pop up.)  Wax the board all the way to the tail.  While you are still a beginner you should put a new coat of wax on before each time going out. It is better to have too much wax than not enough!

Before paddling out your feet will be on the bottom of the seafloor.  Do not walk normally; do the “stingray shuffle.”  Shuffle your feet along the seafloor to scare away any potential stingrays.

When a paddling surfer and a surfer riding a wave collide, it is almost always the paddlers fault.  These collisions are easily avoidable.  Do not paddle into the take-off zone (where surfers are catching waves.)  I repeat, never paddle toward the take-off zone.

When an oncoming surfer acknowledges you, be sure to  just stay still where you are and they will avoid you. If it seems like a surfer doesn’t see you and you think you are going to get hit, you can turn turtle or freedive under the wave to avoid getting hit.

The majority of surfing injuries are inflicted by the board itself.  Surfboards are heavy, move fast, have sharp noses, and have knife-like fins.

Photography by Jennifer Jenkins

You will wipeout.  As you’re falling off your board, try to fall away from it, with your hands covering your head.  After the wave has past look up to make sure the board isn’t above you and go up for air.  Grab the leash and pull your board back to you.

Who has the right of way? So you’re in the lineup; waiting for a wave.  The person on the inside or closest to the curl of the wave has first dibs on that wave.

If you’re paddling for a wave and notice that someone next to you is paddling for the same wave, pull out; even if you have the right of way. To pull out you sit back on your board, with feet in the water, and nose of the board in the air.  It’s better to avoid a collision even if you were on the inside!

wind facts and pop-up practice

Photography by Jennifer Jenkins

Wind: the creator of waves.  For surfing, no wind or very light offshore wind is what we are looking for.  A crosswind sometimes can suffice if it is not too forceful.

If no wind or offshore wind is the ideal, than onshore wind is not what we want; especially as a beginner.  Onshore winds cause waves to flatten, and break dangerously.

• fun-board: a surfboard seven to eight feet long; longer than short-boards and more maneuverable than longboards (over eight feet long)
• offshore: away from the shore
• onshore: going towards the shore
• crosswind: wind blowing at a right angle of the wave’s direction

Time to practice pop-ups! You can practice popping up as if you’re on a board before going out into the water.  Pop-ups are perfect practice because they create muscle memory. So when you do catch a wave, your body will know exactly what to do.

Outside on a soft surface (or even inside on your bed) lay down flat on your stomach.  Pretend that you are out in the ocean, paddling for a wave.  Hurry, hurry! The wave is coming, and you are going to catch this one.

You should be positioned in the middle of your imaginary board.  Out in the water if you are situated too far forward the tip (nose) of the board will go under. However, being too far back causes the end of the board (tail) to submerge.

Photography by Jennifer Jenkins

You’re paddling on your imaginary board.  Suddenly you feel the surge of a wave behind you.  This is the time to pop-up.

1. First, straighten your arms with palms flat on the imaginary board’s surface (hands should be parallel to your chest.) This is similar to the push-up position.  Make sure to keep your head up!
2. Support your body weight with your hands, and toes of your feet.
3. Next, either bring the left or right knee to the chest (whichever is most comfortable.)  This prepares you to get ready to stand up.
4. Now, quickly lift your back leg off the board and hop up.  Legs should be slightly bent and parallel to the imaginary board.  Your arms should be out for “balance” and your head should be up.

If you naturally put your left foot ahead of your right, you are regular-footed.  However, if you find it more comfortable to put the right foot ahead of the left, you’re goofy-footed.  I am goofy-footed, so don’t fret, this is not a derogatory term.

Now, let’s talk about what type of board you should be using.  A fun-board or a longboard is ideal for beginner surfers to learn on.

As of now, if you don’t want to commit and buy a board, there are several places you can rent a foam-board.

Before you suit up and surf

Photography by Jennifer Jenkins

It is imperative that you know the anatomy of a wave before you even touch the water, and start surfing.  This knowledge will help you pick waves specific for your surfing ability.  Let me start you off with some vocabulary before I bombard you with information.

• Swell: capable of traveling extremely long distances; formed by wind
• Breaking: when the top of a wave is moving faster than it’s foundation and the top folds onto itself
• F ace: this is what is referred to as the front of a wave
• Crest: this is the very top of a wave
• Trough: valleys between wave crests
• Wavelength: this is the distance from one wave crest to the next
• Wave height: the vertical distance from the wave’s trough to crest
• Fade out or back off: this is when a wave breaks a distance offshore in shallow water, but then continues into deeper water and stops breaking
• Lip: part of the wave, (at the top) that is right about to crest downward
• Curl: this is part of a wave that collapses on itself (at the top called breaking)
• Spilling waves: fat, broad-based triangular waves
• Pocket: where you’re surfing parallel with the beach staying just ahead of the breaking wave. (This is the most fun part of surfing.  You will get here eventually, but for now lets leave the pocket for more advanced surfers.)
• Whitewater or soup: (exactly how it sounds,) this is the white, foamy, and frothy water that occurs after waves break

This is the basic terminology you must know before heading out.

Once you know this information, you’ll be able to look out into the surf and figure out where you need to be that best suits your surfing ability.

Beginners should be surfing on the inside, catching spilling waves or where the waves have already broken (whitewater.)

Take a trip to the Pismo Pier when you get the chance.  Sit and watch the waves roll in.  Test yourself and the knowledge I have provided above.  Ask yourself: where is the face of that wave or did that wave just fade out?

This would be an awesome opportunity to watch other surfers, and absorb their good habits and critique their positioning.  Is that guy surfing in the pocket? Ask yourself if you had to go out there at that moment, where would you choose to paddle for your waves?